I have a 2001 chevy cavalier. it keeps overheating. My husband has changed the thermostat,water pump, And head gasket. We have even pump the radiator hose that goes to the engine from radiator to make sure air bubbles are out.We thought it was fixed till today it overheated again.only this time there is still water in the reservoir.

Can you give us some advice on what
to do next?

Hi there,

First thing’s first, get a cooling system pressure test to determine if you have an internal or external coolant leak. Looking at the coolant level inside the overflow bottle does not tell you what is happening inside the radiator.  The radiator could be low or empty and the overflow could still have some coolant, so you have to check inside the radiator.  I would not be surprised if the radiator on a 11 year old vehicle is restricted with rust and calcium deposits at the bottom which you can not see or “flush out”. If the coolant cant flow through the radiator the engine will overheat. If the top radiator hose is hot and the bottom hose is cold when the engine is overheating, you might have a radiator restriction, an air pocket in the system or the electric cooling fan is not coming on.

Second, check the electric cooling fan motor operation, the fan up near the radiator should cycle on and off as the engine heats up.  if you just have 1 electric fan near the radiator that should also come on when the A/C compressor is turned on, so if it does not come on with the a/c on…the fan motor is probably bad.

If you have 2 electric fans, one is for the A/C and the other for the radiator so my test really wont tell you much.  the electric cooling fan is required to come on when at stops or slow speeds, but not so much at freeway speeds. So if the overheating is happening when the car is at a stop light or at idle and the fan is not coming on…the fan needs to be checked. There is a sensor for the fan at the bottom of the radiator that should also be checked to make sure it is sending the signal to the fan motor.

Lastly, when the engine is overheating, turn on the heater. If the air coming out of the vents is hot, then you have enough coolant inside the engine to operate the heater and might indicate a problem with the electric cooling fan, or a restriction in the radiator. If you do not have hot air coming out the vents, then you most likely have no coolant in the system….due to a leak somewhere or a radiator that is so restricted that no coolant is allowing to flow inside the engine.

Hope this helps

Blessings,
Austin Davis

Follow up question

Thank you  for your reply , However, when the car over heats it blows cold air through the vents. We checked the fan it also works. so were at a loss when it comes to the overheating.

Follow up reply

Cold air means NO hot coolant in the engine…..its all leaked out, or is not circulating.  Pressure test first, then look very hard at the radiator for a restriction or an air pocket not allowing the coolant to circulate. New thermostat should have been 195 degrees.

Blessings,
Austin Davis

Hello,

I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe that is having problems with the catalytic converter.  I’m looking to get a quote to fix it.  I do have an extended warranty program with Western General that is still in effect but I don’t know if the catalytic converter is covered.  I’m also looking to get a permanent power inverter installed.  I have one of those converters that plugs into the lighter but I’d like to get a permanent one installed.

If the catalytic converter costs too much, I am going to be looking for a replacement SUV, something slightly used – maybe two to three years old with low mileage.  My wife is also looking for a used vehicle, again about two to three years old.

I live in Humble and work in Houston so let me know if this is the type of work you do – how much it will cost and if you warranty your work.  Email me here or give me a call.

Thanks,
Landon

Hi Landon,

Thanks for the email. I sold my brick and mortar repair shop a few years back, although it’s still running strong in the Heights at the corner of 23rd and Yale in the Heights area.  Master Auto Service, my grandfather started in 1937.

Rueben is a good contact person if you want to call and talk to him and get his opinion and a quote.  713-862-6639, you can tell him we emailed. He is a nice guy.

I have NO affiliation with them anymore, but I did a personal walk through and met the new owners and management last month and was impressed with how they are running things.

Rarely do you see a problem with a cat converter these days, so I would be a little skeptical of the diagnosis that the converter is bad.  Possible, but not common.

Meineke Muffler on Shepherd and 11th area is who I used to replace converters, Ask for Ken….if he is still there. Place is a dump, good guys and great prices. He will have a universal converter that is much cheaper than the OEM.

http://www.meineke.com/Center/10.aspx

The permanent power might not be that big of deal, hardest part is usually trying to find a place to hook into and mount that looks ok and not in the way.

Your converter might still be covered under the factory warranty, you might have 100K mile warranty with Hyundai, so I would call and ask.  But before I replaced it and paid out of your pocket I would have Rueben at Master Auto Service check it out to make sure that is the real problem.

Blessings,
Austin Davis

In looking at the vast number and types of vehicles used for personal service, as well as business, it becomes clear that a skilled diesel mechanic is in great demand. In fact, experts predict that over the next 10 years the need for qualified mechanics will reach incredible heights. In addition to working on cars and trucks, a diesel mechanic would work on busses, heavy equipment ships, and even trains. This service ensures that people can get to work or take vacations but even more importantly, that businesses can get product to the end-user.

To become a diesel mechanic, an individual would need to start by acquiring the necessary skills, something achievable with the right education and training. Along with learning about maintenance and repair, this would also provide guidance for the installation of diesel engines and components. It is true that completing the necessary education and training takes time but the investment would ultimately pay off. Below is valuable insight into what it takes to become a bona fide diesel mechanic with a bright future.

Educational Requirements

The best option would be for someone still in high school to start taking the appropriate classes. By getting involved with automotive repair, physics, algebra, electronics, shop, geometry, English, and even computer classes, an individual would gain an edge. However, courses required to become a diesel mechanic are also offered through community colleges, universities, and vocational schools if the opportunity in high school were missed.

Although basic studies are important, taking time to take more advanced courses would prove extremely helpful. Keep in mind that some of these studies could be taken prior to working as a diesel mechanic while others would come later. For this reason, someone interested in this type of career would need to research options for education and then take the appropriate steps to get things rolling.

Some companies will hire a person for this type of position with a diesel mechanic diploma or certificate but in most cases, companies prefer someone with a minimum an Associate’s degree and preferably, a Bachelor’s degree. Both of these degrees would prepare a person to build a successful diesel mechanic career but there are distinct differences in the two levels of education.

First, we will look at what a person would gain in this field with an associate’s degree. Through classroom studies but also on-the-job training, a person would learn about pneumatics, electrical systems, electronics, welding, diagnostic testing, air conditioning systems, powertrain equipment, hydraulics, and a variety of other things. Without doubt, completing an associate’s degree would provide more opportunity to work as a diesel mechanic and boost income level than for someone with only a mechanic’s diploma or certificate.

Second, the information about a bachelor’s degree shows the difference in the two levels of education. In this case, a person would complete four full years of study. As part of education, an individual would actually gain hands on experience working on various types of diesel vehicles but also learn about leasing/selling diesel equipment, suspension systems, advanced fuel systems, heavy equipment operation, drivetrains, and the list goes on. Having a bachelor’s degree would also open more doors of opportunity and increase earning potential even more.

Job Opportunities

Depending on the level of education but also the employer, a person striving to become a diesel mechanic could attend school and work for a diesel mechanic company or within a different industry at the same time. While the optimal situation would involve working with a company associated with diesel engines but other jobs that would still prove beneficial include construction, shipping, farming, and transportation. In each case, the person would be exposed to things needed as a successful diesel mechanic.

If someone were attending school full-time, working could be extremely difficult. However, there is still a way to gain more insight into diesel mechanic work by volunteering for a company within the fields mentioned above. Even putting in five to ten hours a week would make a tremendous difference. In fact, there are companies throughout the United States that would gladly accept volunteer work in that it helps them but also allows them to contribute to a person’s learning experience toward becoming a diesel mechanic.

Training While Working

Completing a college education is imperative for someone who wants to build a successful diesel mechanic career but even more knowledge and expertise could be gained with training opportunities while working. Some of the more important aspects of this have been provided below.

1.  Commercial Driver’s License or CDL – This specialized type of license is offered through any state Department of Motor Vehicle. To test, drive, or operate any type of vehicle with a diesel engine, a mechanic would be required to possess a valid CDL. Therefore, while learning new things on the job, a person could also research the appropriate steps for going through CDL testing.

2.    Low Level Job Responsibilities – Look, no one wants to be stuck with the lesser important job responsibilities at work but in truth, there is a great wealth of education that comes from some of these duties. For instance, cleaning up repair shops, refueling vehicles, cleaning different parts, and other similar tasks expose a person to all the different types and levels of a diesel mechanic job. Most people who perform high even on the small stuff go on to exceptional careers because they also perform high on the bigger responsibilities of being a diesel mechanic.

Hello Austin
I have a 1986 Delta 88 Oldsmobile.  It has 91,000 miles on it.  It has the 3.8V6 in it. I was wondering what the symptoms would be for the following problems: I was wondering what the symptoms would be for a bad crankshaft?  I then was wondering what the symptoms would be for a bad crankshaft sensor.  I then was wondering what the symptoms would be for a bad camshaft sensor?

I have the car at my local mechanic and he said it was one of those three things.  He does not sound too sure of himself though.

I will tell you what the car was doing to see if you think it is one of those things.  I was just driving down the highway at 65 or 70 mph and the car just died.  No warning lights came on before it died.  It was just like somebody turned the key off.  I put it in neutral to try and restart it.  It would not restart so I pulled to the side of the highway.  It still would not restart.  It just set there and cranked and cranked.

The engine sounded like it was not even trying to fire.   Also for the last month or 2 the car when the engine is cold would almost completely die and the car would jerk and then the engine sounded normal after a few seconds then the car returned to normal power.  Also sometimes it would be hard to start the car because it was hard to turn the key far enough for the car to start.  Please let me know what you think it could be.  Thank you for your help.  This advice will save me a lot of money because I can’t afford to be without my car much longer.

Sincerely,

Tom

Hey There Tom,

I have replaced many crankshaft sensors on these vehicles and would be a good guess.  I have also replaced many ignition modules, which usually overheat when they fail and have to cool down again before they will work. They control spark and fuel control.  Link To Ignition Module

Its an expensive part to guess at, the crank sensor is a cheap part but takes a little more labor.

Ask your mechanic if he can get another ignition module as a test, even a junk yard one just to test. Install it on your car and drive it for a while and see what happens.  If he does not have one, or no access to a junk yard, try replacing the crank sensor and see what happens.

Austin Davis

Dear Friend

I’ve got a 1993 Toyota Camry 2200 cc engine. I’ve been having vexing electrical problems to do with starting the car. 9 times out of 10 it starts up fine. But that one time out of 10, you turn the key and nothing happens, no click, no starter turning, nothing. For a while I thought it was the starter and I used to hit the starter with a hammer but finally I replaced the starter and the problem keeps recurring. The alternator is new, as is the distributor, not just the cap, but the whole shebang, coil, rotor, etc. .

Battery is new. Timing belt recently replaced. One point hat could be related is that not long ago I went to jet wash the engine to degrease it, and didn’t cover the alternator and that precipitated blowing the alternator and needing to replace that. Perhaps something else got wet? It’s as if sounds like something is sticking, maybe a relay, or something in the ignition switch? I’d be grateful for any ideas.

Thanks
John

Hey there John

I would triple check the battery connections and make darn sure there is no corrosion build up on the cables and connections and that they are good and tight. These vehicles have a problem with loose battery connections and corrosion build up around them.

Next time this no start issue happens. Turn on the headlights then try and start the engine. If the headlights go OUT, you have a connection problem at the battery or a bad cell inside the battery and it should be replaced.

If the headlights DIM but do not go out, you most likely have a starter problem or a loose connection at the starter, or a loose ground strap at the starter or chassis ground. You should have a starter relay on this model if I remember correctly, but rarely do they fail, but might be worth a replacement just to rule it out.

If the headlights stay good and bright then you probably have a neutral safety switch problem at the transmission, a security or alarm problem if you have one, or an ignition switch or some sort of power source problem or ground problem like an engine to chassis ground.

This is NOT , an alternator, timing belt, spark plug etc. etc. type of problem. This is either a battery with a bad cell, a loose connection or a main power supply to the starter like an ignition switch or a safety switch like the transmission neutral safety switch. You might also try starting in neutral instead of park when this happens, that might help rule out a neutral safety issue. Moving the gear shift through all positions while holding the key in the start position might also determine a neutral safety switch problem.

Blessings
Austin Davis
C2BR8E4HR3X9

Austin, thanks for the great advice you give here, it has been extremely useful. I need you input on this. I have a 2004 Oldsmobile Alero, 4 cyl, 2.2L Engine with 103k miles on it. Two weeks ago I tried to start my car in the morning and after 2 or 3 attempts it finally started. I immediately noticed that the engine light was flashing and the engine was running very rough.

By the way this has never happened to me before and my car usually started right away. I let it warm for 5 minutes and when I switched to drive the car was not responding as usual. When I stepped on the pedal it seemed like the gas was not getting through. I drove it less than 3 miles to work and at lunch I decided to take it to Firestone for a complete check up which is also less than 3 miles away.

I dropped the car and an hour later the Technician called me and he said that the ignition module and ignition coil went bad, because of this two of the spark plugs got damaged. Their estimate to replace the above mentioned parts was $777. I was shocked but did not have many options at that moment. I asked them about the warranty and he said 12 month/12k miles for parts and labor. I approved the estimate and picked up the car in the evening. The next day the check engine light came on again, it was not flashing but I decided to take it to the shop again. They said that since the car was only running on 2 cylinders it could have been that there were still fumes in the system and they recommended that I drive the car for a couple of more days and the light should come off.

They reset the computer but after two days the light came on again. I took it back and this time the said that the catalytic converter went bad and the shop manager gave me an estimate of 640 dollars to repair it. I obviously was furious when I heard that and I demanded an explanation, the manager said the they performed all the necessary diagnostics and it was impossible for them to diagnose a problem like that without the code. I asked them if they checked the sensors and he said the those were working fine.

I believe that my car was not diagnosed properly and although they have offered not to charge me for labor and reduced the estimate to 400 I still believe they should take responsibility for the repair. What do you think Austin? Could they’ve done a better diagnosis even without the code?

Thanks,
Jose

Hey there Jose, thanks for your email.

You did not say anything about the starting issue still being there? I am assuming they DID fix the original starting problem?? If so, then I suppose their original diagnosis was partially correct then, right? There is a possibility the catalytic converter was damaged with the engine running poorly and you continuing to drive it when it was running bad. It could have caused too much fuel rich exhaust to inter the converter. I would just drive the car for a while and see if the light goes out and stays out. Maybe take it on the freeway and really get heavy in the gas pedal and try to blow out what ever carbon build up that could be in the converter and see what happens.

I am not sure I would spend $400 to replace the converter if nothing else is wrong. I would probably get another diagnosis, preferably from a dealership in a month or two if the light is still coming on.

Let me know what happens
Blessings,
Austin Davis

Maybe you can help me make up my mind about buying this particular car. It is a 2000 Ford Contour, Six cylinder, the body is in real good shape. It has 123,000 miles on it. I drove it, but to me it felt a little rough. I know it is decision, but I thought you could give me another
opinion.
Thanks
Abe

Hey there Abe

That is not a very swell vehicle, I would steer clear and buy something a little newer, like a KIA Rio 2009-2011. Great price, even new, great maintenance and lots of room for a small vehicle. Test drive a new one just so you know. Most people discredit Kia because its a small car company from Korea, but let me tell you they are taking on all the big auto makers in a big way. They make great vehicles ( I own one), they are very affordable, awesome maintenance record and fuel economy.

Seriously take a test drive!

Blessings,
Austin Davis

Hello!

I have a 1997 Honda Accord LX. I currently have approximately 171, XXX mile. Now the problem that I am having with my car is the RPM gauge jumps up and down while driving around town and on the highway. Once that starts, my car runs crazy. Its like my car “misses” while trying to pick up speed. Its never cut off on me but it acts like it. Sometimes I hear noises coming from under the hood, like the valves rattling when my car starts driving crazy. I was wondering if you could give me something to go by or what you think is the problem. By the way, I have changes spark plugs, wires, cap and button….basically a tune-up.

Thanks for your time and hopefully you can help me out

Lasheena

Hey there,

Seems you have already done most of the basic stuff, plug wires etc. I would next check the distributor and you will need to see a mechanic unless you can do it yourself. Those vehicles had some internal distributor issues and you might have missed a recall or a service bulletin. The tachometer gets its signal from inside the distributor. You can buy a rebuilt distributor pretty cheap at the auto parts store…..if you just want to take a guess.

I have a 2000 Toyota Camry with about 150000 miles. After I dive my car for a while, I go to a gas station, stop the car, fill the gas tank, then it’s hard to start my car Properly. I can actually start the car, but the car/engine does not run smoothly, it idles a little bit. The car will stop after a while (not driving) of if I drive it. Usually I have to start the card several times till the car engine runs smoothly. This problem is getting frequently now. The car is easy to start when the engine is cool/cold.

I took the car to a repair shop last week, the guy cold not find the causes of the problem. So he did not repair it.

Thanks.
Duixian

Hello there,

I would ask your mechanic to inspect and clean the throttle body, it should be done as maintenance at this mileage regardless if it corrects the problem. It’s cheap and fast to do and should greatly improve idle performance.

Blessings
Austin Davis

Greetings, Here is a question for you. I have a 99 Buick Century 3.1l V6 in the shop now for inspection. It is making a loud noise which I assumed to be under the driver’s seat area and to be an exhaust issue, but what do I know? I wrote a note to the mechanic telling him as much. He called to tell me that the engine is knocking really loudly. He said something inside the engine has collapsed. He suggested no tests or remedy but to add a Lucas product, baby it, and then unload it when we are ready. I have used 10W-30 oil. Could that be too light? I live in PA. He is not telling me I need an expensive repair, so he is not trying to rip me off. So, how do I process this info and proceed?
Thank you,
Scott

Hi there Scott

I would try to get more information from your mechanic about the noise. Is it from a rod or main bearing deep inside the engine or is it from on top o the engine like from a valve or lifter in which case the lubricating oil he recommends might actually help. If it’s from a rod or main bearing the engine is pretty much toast and will be very costly to repair.

I also would get another mechanic to listen to the noise and get their opinion if they think it is a lifter or top engine noise or a more costly bearing type noise. I would hate to see you junk the car for a noise that could be simple to repair.

A used engine might be a more cost effective method of repair if the noise is from a bearing or piston. $2500 or so. A valve job might be the worst case scenario for a lifter or valve type of noise on the top of the engine, $1000 or so.

Marvel Mystery Oil additive which is available at most auto parts stores would be a better additive than Lucas for a lifter or valve noise

Blessings
Austin Davis