The Japanese firm believes that pure electric cars are a solution for traveling in town, while the plug-in hybrid vehicles are ideal for combining urban traffic movements on weekdays with more travel.

Toyota has already announced its new hybrid car launches committed to the environment in the past Frankfurt Motor Show 2011, featuring the latest in the family Prius and the new Avensis models and Hilux.

Toyota plans to begin marketing next year’s version of the Prius hybrid-plug, the plug-in Toyota Prius, the most advanced to date, that can travel 23 miles in pure electric mode, with the performance of a hybrid total tat recharges in just an hour and a half.

The Prius, equipped with the revolutionary Toyota Hybrid Synergy Drive achieves a remarkably low CO2 emissions and impressive economical fuel.

The Toyota Prius + is a full hybrid MPV 7-seater that offers savings, comfort and space.

For its part, the new Avensis made its world debut also in the aforementioned Motor Show. The fourth generation of the popular Avensis reaches higher levels of elegance, efficiency and quality with a new design.

Dear Friend

I’ve got a 1993 Toyota Camry 2200 cc engine. I’ve been having vexing electrical problems to do with starting the car. 9 times out of 10 it starts up fine. But that one time out of 10, you turn the key and nothing happens, no click, no starter turning, nothing. For a while I thought it was the starter and I used to hit the starter with a hammer but finally I replaced the starter and the problem keeps recurring. The alternator is new, as is the distributor, not just the cap, but the whole shebang, coil, rotor, etc. .

Battery is new. Timing belt recently replaced. One point hat could be related is that not long ago I went to jet wash the engine to degrease it, and didn’t cover the alternator and that precipitated blowing the alternator and needing to replace that. Perhaps something else got wet? It’s as if sounds like something is sticking, maybe a relay, or something in the ignition switch? I’d be grateful for any ideas.

Thanks
John

Hey there John

I would triple check the battery connections and make darn sure there is no corrosion build up on the cables and connections and that they are good and tight. These vehicles have a problem with loose battery connections and corrosion build up around them.

Next time this no start issue happens. Turn on the headlights then try and start the engine. If the headlights go OUT, you have a connection problem at the battery or a bad cell inside the battery and it should be replaced.

If the headlights DIM but do not go out, you most likely have a starter problem or a loose connection at the starter, or a loose ground strap at the starter or chassis ground. You should have a starter relay on this model if I remember correctly, but rarely do they fail, but might be worth a replacement just to rule it out.

If the headlights stay good and bright then you probably have a neutral safety switch problem at the transmission, a security or alarm problem if you have one, or an ignition switch or some sort of power source problem or ground problem like an engine to chassis ground.

This is NOT , an alternator, timing belt, spark plug etc. etc. type of problem. This is either a battery with a bad cell, a loose connection or a main power supply to the starter like an ignition switch or a safety switch like the transmission neutral safety switch. You might also try starting in neutral instead of park when this happens, that might help rule out a neutral safety issue. Moving the gear shift through all positions while holding the key in the start position might also determine a neutral safety switch problem.

Blessings
Austin Davis
C2BR8E4HR3X9

I have a 2000 Toyota Camry with about 150000 miles. After I dive my car for a while, I go to a gas station, stop the car, fill the gas tank, then it’s hard to start my car Properly. I can actually start the car, but the car/engine does not run smoothly, it idles a little bit. The car will stop after a while (not driving) of if I drive it. Usually I have to start the card several times till the car engine runs smoothly. This problem is getting frequently now. The car is easy to start when the engine is cool/cold.

I took the car to a repair shop last week, the guy cold not find the causes of the problem. So he did not repair it.

Thanks.
Duixian

Hello there,

I would ask your mechanic to inspect and clean the throttle body, it should be done as maintenance at this mileage regardless if it corrects the problem. It’s cheap and fast to do and should greatly improve idle performance.

Blessings
Austin Davis

I am having some sort of power problem with my 94’ Camry (LE). Essentially I cannot get it to turn over or start (no clicking, no sound, no nothing). It sat for about a year or so without any starting or anything being done to it (I know, shame on me). I’ve replaced the battery and the starter, the alternator is fine, and there are no blown fuses.

There is also half to three-quarters of a tank of gas in the car. I can get power to the headlights (including brights), the door-ajar light comes on the dash when the door is opened, as does the ring around the ignition keyhole. The car will also ding when I put the key in the ignition. The clock, cd player, and all other dash lights do not come on. When using a piece of electrical wire and jumping the starter directly from the battery itself, it did try to turn over once or twice but that was about it.

I was going to run the OBD but when I put the jumper wire in the appropriate terminals (E1 and TE1) nothing happens on the dash when I turn the key like it’s supposed to. I’m assuming since it’s a 94 that it is OBD1 and not 2. And of course since I can’t get it to run I can’t even get it to the auto store for them to run the scan tool either. The current theory is that there must be an interruption of power somewhere in the wiring, but I don’t know where to start looking. Might this be the problem or should I be looking at something else? Any advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated.

Sincerely,

Bill

Howdy Bill,

I would be a little suspect of the starter motor, BUT triple check your batter cable connections and make sure they are good and tight and clean of corrosion. Turn on the headlights, then try to start the engine. if the headlights dim down, you most likely have a problem with the starter motor.

If the headlights go OUT when you try to start the engine, you have a battery cable connection problem or a ground wire that is not firmly connected at the battery, check all connections at the battery.

If the headlights remain bright, no dim or anything….you might have an alarm problem if you have an alarm, an ignition switch problem, a neutral safety switch problem – try starting the engine in neutral and move the shifter through all gears then back to park to make sure the transmission IS really in park.

Hooking up a computer or reading codes will tell you nothing about this kind of problem.

Blessings,
Austin Davis

We recently had our 2001 Toyota Avalon serviced by our local Toyota dealership for Engine sludge. 96,000 miles, and we had all necessary service and oil changes over the course of 7 years.

This $3,000-$4,000 service was covered by Toyota due to a Class action suit back in 200-2001. They did everything that was recommend to clean the engine of the sludge build up and replaced parts that couldn’t be cleaned. The vehicle was in the shop for 7 days.

When I picked up my car I drove to dinner. After coming out to my car hour later and started the engine a huge amount of white smoke came out of the tail pipes and encompassed the entire rear end of the car. I immediately called the Toyota service shop.

I was advised this was normal. After it continued to happen for several days I called the Toyota Service rep, he advised me to drive the car for 200 miles and then call him back if it continued to smoke. It doesn’t happen with every cold start, but does happen at least every day or two. Not sure if that has to do with the amount of miles the vehicle is actually being driven in that time frame?

It’s not a small amount of smoke, and to make matters worse, it always happens right when someone in the grocery store of work parking lot, that they are in isn’t path of unloading all this smoke, quite embarrassing to say in the least. I took the vehicle back to Toyota yesterday. They just called me this morning as stated that when they started it, there was no smoke, no oil residue on tailpipes and nothing is wrong with the vehicle.

They said all they saw was condensation. This is crazy, I know I’m not nuts. If your vehicle is creating that much smoke something has to be out of kilter. Shops dealing with women I understand they think we will trust anything we are told, however something is wrong.

I read your question on white smoke, and that all makes sense to me, but why wouldn’t this be something the service shop would check. All they did was a visual at the exhaust? Shouldn’t they be checking the gaskets they replaced to make sure, #1 all were replaced? I’m very frustrated and appreciate any insight you may be able to provide.

Thank you,
Kim

Hi Kim,

Wow….I am not real sure what is going on, but ANY amount of smoke coming from the exhaust is NOT good. This could be white some, which would be from coolant/antifreeze leaking into the engine or this could be a very light blue colored smoke which would be from engine oil leaking inside the engine where it should not be.

If this smoke seems to happen more when the engine has been sitting for awhile…like overnight or an hour or so in a parking lot but seems to calm down when after the engine has been running a few minutes…I would suspect you have a coolant leak or there is a problem with the valve stem seals in the top of the engine.

A simple cooling system pressure test would rule out the possibility of an internal coolant leak…I would would do this if you were in my shop.

The problem with removing engine oil sludge is that once you remove the excess sludge, it allows more engine oil pressure to flow inside the engine. That old sludge has slowed the flow of internal engine oil, and has acted like a seal/gasket itself. Engine oil sludge is like a paste and it finds its way into the small cracks inside the engine. Once that sludge has been removed….there is nothing left to plug up the small holes in gaskets and oil seals. Think of sludge as cholesterol in your arteries. Depending on how bad the sludge was, and how much of it is left….replacing the engine is probably the only real option here.

If you did not have smoke before this repair…I would highly suggest you go back to the dealership and talk to the general manager. I would as to talk to the district manager for Toyota if you dont get some REAL answers from the dealer GM. Toyota really values customer loyalty and I would bet the district GM would go the extra mile to keep you as a long term Toyota customer.

Worst case scenario you might want to think about buying a used engine from a local junk yard and have the dealership install it. Toyota wont warranty the used engine obviously, but they might install it no charge if you purchased it. You could probably find a used engine for $750 or less from a junk yard.

Of course…making a deal with Toyota to sell this car to them and get you in a new 08 or 09 Toyota at a drastically reduced price would be my highest recommendation.

Blessings,

Austin Davis

Reader Follow Up

Thanks for the great information! When Toyota called me after they started the vehicle for the second time and no smoke appeared, they said you need to come pick up your car and return our rental. As if they were doing me a favor. I spoke with the GM of service and he felt his shop did what they needed to do since they witnessed no smoke while they had the car parked.

I felt as though their shop was busy and I was being rushed out. He did agree to keep the car an extra day drive it the 11 miles like I do each day to work,then start it up, and he would authorize the rental ONE more day. It appears they cannot authorize any work unless they themselves can see something is going on.

I believed that since they were the ones who cleaned my engine sludge they would attempt to see what was going on. All they said was it was condensation, and no smoke! I got the feeling like they were not willing to find out what was going on, so I said forget it I will pick up my car that night and find someone else to work on it!

This is the best part of my story………..
I turned in their rental and they said they would have my car pulled around to the pick up area, where all the other customers were also waiting for their “Repaired” cars. Wow! low and behold here comes my Avalon, thick white smoke shooting out the back under the front and leaving a big cloud behind!

The valet got out of the car and said you wouldn’t believe all the smoke coming out when I started the car in the back yard. And guess what all the services reps came running to see what was going on. The customers behind my car were all trying to get away from the smoke! My service rep appeared and said “Oh looks like we misdiagnosed your problem, we should of driven the car. DUH?

Do they work on cars much or what? Anyway he said we can now better determine what might be wrong since “WE” saw the smoke come from your car. They were much to busy to keep the car, and told me to bring it back on Tuesday. So we will see what happens now. It was a pretty embarassing moment for Toyota Service Department for sure……..

My concern is, at one point prior to working on the engine, they stated the engine sludge was BAD, then after opening it up said it wasn’t as bad?? Is this the main office saying just do what you can to clean it up, with the least amount of cost to Toyota?

What was actually replaced was Valve guide seals, valve cover gaskets. Planum gaskets, cam seals, oil pan gasket…… Looking at pictures of engine sludge, it looks pretty bad, and not sure how all that can get cleaned out without tearing the engine apart, which I was told by the GM they didn’t do that.

I want to make sure they did everything they should of done, as it’s been a great vehicle for 7 years now. I would love a new Toyota, but not the car payment for sure. So I will see what they come back with at this point.

I appreciate all the information you have provided. I know something has to be wrong with a vehicle that smokes for 3 weeks.

Thanks,

Kim

I have a 1991 Toyota Corrola car wont start most of the time doesn’t fire until I release the key once in awhile it will start and seem to run ok but most of the time just sputters when im finished turning over.

I have had same problem with motorcycles and they would start if you kicked instead of using electric start I found the problem to be less than 12 volts going to ingition. Do you think this is whart is happening now, a bad starter drawing to much or bad wiring do you have any ideas

Thanks Lenny

Howdy Lenny,

When you say your engine does not start I am assuming the engine turns over fast enough…so the starter motor is spinning the engine around and around like it should, you are just not able to get the engine to start up……..correct?

If so, I would first look at the simple stuff, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and ignition rotor and make sure those items are in good shape. These cars had an issue with their ignitor system inside the distributor. You can actually buy a re-manufactured distributor from your local auto parts store pretty cheap these days.

I would also check your ignition switch and make sure you are getting 12 volts coming out of it.

If your engine is NOT spinning over fast enough, then yes, you might have a starter motor that is drawing to many amps and needs to be replaced or rebuilt or you could have a weak battery or a bad connection at the battery cables.

–
Blessings, Austin Davis

I HAVE A PROBLEM IN MY AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, TOYOTA 4 RUNNER 1999, SRS, THE BRAKE PEDAL AND ACELERATOR IS VERY HARD, I YET CHANGE THE MASTER CYLINDER BRAKE , AND BRAKE BOOSTER, BUT THE PROBLEM IS CONTINUED, THE MECHANICS DON´T GET SOLVE THE PROBLEM, WHAT DO I TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM, COULD YOU HELP ME?
I WAIT PROMPT REPLY
FAITHFUL
Pedro
Luanda – ANGOLA

Yo Pedo, you say that BOTH brake pedal AND brake pedals are hard to operate? If that is the case, I would suspect there is something wrong under the dashboard inside the vehicle. Can you get on your back and look up at the pedals as you operate them with your hands to see if something is rubbing or in the way?

If you don’t see anything, go out under the hood of the vehicle and have someone operate both pedals while you watch under the hood….is there something in the way??? Do you see anything loose under the hood……do you have a vacuum operated power brake booster, and if you do is the rubber vacuum hose plugged into the booster?

A hard brake pedal is usually do to a bad brake BOOSTER, but the booster does not control the gas pedal operation and I cant think of anything that would be affecting both pedals except something under the dashboard that is in the way….maybe the floormat???

Blessings,

Austin Davis

Dear Austin,

I am really frustrated as the garages I went to do not have a clue on my problem.

“I am driving Toyota Echo 2000 with 80,000 miles. The car is automatic drive. When I shift the automatic transmission to D, N, R or P mode and the AC is off the sound/response of the engine is ok.

But while the Brake being applied, the AC is on and if the automatic transmission is shifted to D or R then there is huge vibration!!! The vibration is little less if the automatic transmission is shifted to P or N. When the automatic transmission is on D or R mode and the Brake is released the vibration suddenly increases but disappears as the car moves on”.

Pls help.

Regards,

Suman

Hey there Suman,

The first thing I would check if you came to my shop would be your Throttle Body, and we would clean it as needed. The throttle body is basically in charge of regulating the amount of fresh air that enters the engine. This part can become dirty and the moving parts inside can stick, causing erratic idle speeds, dying at idle complaints and rough idle complaints.

Since the A/C compressor puts more strain on the engine when it is running, the idle speed must be increased to compensate for this additional load on the engine. If the throttle body is dirty and not operating properly it will not increase the idle speed enough, and the idle will be rough….this is the vibration you are feeling.

Here is more about the throttle body, and a link to a picture

Throttle Body Cleaning

Ask your mechanic to inspect and clean the idle speed control motor and the throttle body for you. This should be done as part of routine maintenance ANYWAY. I would charge you about $110 for this repair.

If you still have a vibration after the throttle body cleaning, I would inspect the base idle speed and see if it can be increased just a small amount to smooth out the idle, and I would inspect your engine and transmission mounts for wear.

The engine and transmission mounts are large pieces of rubber that bolt the engine to the body of the vehicle. This rubber can break and wear out over normal use and cause the engine to move around more than it should. This movement will be felt in the cab of the vehicle as a vibration and the steering wheel will sometimes shake as a result of these worn parts.

This repair is more costly, so rule out the other two suggestions I mentioned first. Hopefully a throttle body and idle speed motor cleaning will resolve the issue.

Blessings,

Austin Davis

1991 Toyota Camry stalls on hot days with air condition on …it stalls at stops only when ac is on…new tuneup…..replaced idle control valve……still stalls

THANKS

Hi there ,

I would clean the throttle body bore first, check the base idle speeds second, third, check for a possible vacuum leak under the hood.

Here is a picture of the throttle body

How To Clean a Dirty Throttle Body

Blessings,

Austin Davis

My 2003 Toyota 4 Runner V6 (85,000 miles) has begun (a new problem this winter) to show hard starting after years where it showed quick start up with just a touch of the ignition key contact turn. Last night it cranked ten times and didn’t catch. Next, it cranked 6-8times and very faintly caught and very slowly began to run as if starved for something. (I resisted pumping the gas.)

Gradually (20 seconds) it came to life and ran just fine after that ( doesn’t die at idle or such.). I was concerned it wouldn’t start at all. The power is fine and it runs smoothly after it starts. I live at 8700 feet elevation and visit often at 9100 feet elev. The problem is worst at these altitudes.

I have added HEET and use 87 octane ( they sell 85 octane here as “regular”) without help. Is this problem most likely oxygen sensor failure (does it wear out?) ?; computer problem with air/fuel ratio problem? air filter? battery (its the original one); timing belt (due at 90,000), bad plugs? or… I would greatly appreciate any ideas or suggestions.

Thank you

Russ

Hey Russ,

I always start with the simple stuff in situations like this, clean the throttle body, make sure there are no obvious vacuum leaks under the hood and that the air cleaner housing is installed properly, check spark plugs, replace fuel filter, check ignition coils, check fuel pump pressure etc. etc.

I would bet you have a dirty throttle body, which can easily be cleaned by your mechanic or fast lube place. I would start there first. You are due for new plugs, so that would be my next step if a clean throttle body still gives you trouble…..hopefully that solves the problem.

Here is more on the throttle body

Blessings,

Austin Davis