Dear Austin
I have a problem that has remain unsolved since I bought my car a Hyundai Sonata 1995 Model.: I noticed barely a month after purchase that sometime if I start the car and put it on drive (D) It will respond as if it wants to move & move small but will not until I shift the gear to L. It will then move and as I am driving I will push it back to D. At first this use to happened once in a while.

But recently this problem have persit that now I can’t move the car when it’s park with D, except L and during this period the gear will not select, it will be driving with only the same gear I use to move.

I had gone to two gear mechanic and I was advised to change my gear in which I did, but still the problem continue with the new gear. The funniest thing now is that each time it happens and I go to the mechanic, on the way it will start selecting.

Sometimes when I parked and ask the mechanic to come and check the vehicle it will move with D and select normal. Since Monday it has been OK and selecting well, and I wanted to travel on Saturday, after buying things for my journey, and about to travel, the problem started and has not been working well uptill this moment

Please advise me on what the problem is and the likely solution

Best Regards

Ime

Hi there Ime,

I am not a transmission mechanic….but I highly suggest you take the vehicle to one, not just a regular mechanic, but an automatic transmission shop and let them look at it.

To me, and from your email it sounds like you could have a linkage problem and the shifter inside the vehicle is not moving the internal parts of the transmission properly when you select the DRIVE selection. Or this could be the first sign of internal transmission wear….and a transmission overhaul could be what is needed to repair it.

Usually, the first sign of internal transmission trouble is a hesitation when selecting drive or reverse from park, or no response from one of the gears…like no reverse at all, or very limited movement in reverse.

The transmission mechanic can sometimes smell your transmission oil and determine if excessive internal wear and damage has occurred. With a high mileage 13 year old used car…I would not be too surprised if a transmission overhaul was not needed.

I would not do anything else to this vehicle until you get a qualified transmission mechanic to look at it. Changing transmission fluid and filter, or adding some kind of additive to the fluid could just make the problem worse.

Blessings,

Tags: automatic transmission, automatic transmission overhaul, rebuilt transmission, transmission mechanic, transmission repair

Austin Davis

2003 Honda Civic oil pump failure

I hope you can give me some guidance on how to deal with recent car trouble. I brought my 2003 Honda Civic in for inspection on Monday and they told me that it needed a new battery, a new tire, and an oil change. Fine. I paid about $350 and got the car back the same day.
Previous to the inspection we weren’t having any trouble with the car.

Then on Wednesday — two days later — my husband is driving home from work and the engine seizes. He manages to get the car off to the side but the car is totally dead. He gets it towed back to the mechanic and this morning the mechanic tells us that the oil pump has failed and basically there was no oil getting to various engine parts, some parts are damaged, etc.

He said our options are: 1) buying a used engine for about $2300 2) buying a new engine for about $3500 or 3) getting a new car.

The Civic has 131,000 miles on it. We’re not opposed to getting a new car, but even if we chose that option would a 2003 Civic that doesn’t even start have ANY trade in value?? Would we have to have a used engine put in even if we want to trade it in?

This is all complicated by the fact that I’m due to have a baby on Monday. Today is Thursday. If you have any advice I would really appreciate it.

Thanks.

MB
Philadelphia, PA

Hi there MB,

Sorry to hear about your Honda, but excited to hear about your new baby…congratulations.

Did you guys check to see if there was oil inside this engine? Could the mechanic not have installed the oil after the oil change, or was there a major oil leak somewhere…like the oil filter??

I would look under the vehicle and around the engine to see if there is oil spilled everywhere due to a leak. Also pull the dipstick and make sure there is oil inside the engine…although the mechanic could have already put oil back in it by now.

Oil pump failure is very rare, and even more rare on a Honda….I kinda suspect something else happened here.

This is going to be a costly repair, so I would HIGHLY recommend you get another opinion before you do anything. Have you used this mechanic in the past? Do you have a good relationship with this mechanic…..do you trust them?

Has the timing belt been replaced? Could the timing belt have broken? If the oil pump fails, or there is not enough oil inside the engine….the RED engine light would/should come on the dashboard. You did not mention that?

If the engine is seized up completely the engine will not turn over or try to start when you turn the key, it will just make a clicking noise. If the engine turns over and over but wont start….the timing belt could have broken.

Blessings,

Austin Davis

Dear Austin,

I have an older (1994) Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2L V8.

The engine temperature-gauge rises dramatically when climbing long, steep hills.

Normal city and highway driving or small hills are never a problem.

My local radiator shop quickly diagnosed a ‘plugged rad’ and offered replacement to the tune of $500.

I’m a little skeptical and would like an experienced second opinion: Could it possibly be something else?

Faulty thermostat? Fan clutch?

Would a cooling system pressure-test help determine the cause?

- Wayne

Howdy Wayne,

I think I would concur with the radiator shop….a plugged up radiator is probably the problem here. The pressure test is the first place to start with overheating problems…you are correct, but I don’t think you have a coolant leak since the overheating only occurs under a heavy load.

These radiators are hard to look inside and inspect, but you can sometimes run your hand along the center part of the radiator when the engine is at normal operating temperature and see if there is a considerable temperature difference between the top and bottom of the radiator. If there is, you have a restriction in the radiator.

I would also check to make sure the radiator is FULL of coolant, since low coolant levels can cause this AND if this model is equipped with a distributor I would make sure the base timing is not set too high. If the ignition timing is “advanced” too much it can cause engine pinging noise/clatter noise like bad gas and cause the engine to over heat under a heavy load.

Advancing the ignition timing is a quick way to add a little more power to the engine…which is normally fine to do unless there is a secondary problem like pinging or overheating.

A restriction in the exhaust system like a clogged up catalytic converter or muffler will not allow the hot exhaust gases to escape…thus over heating the engine. Usually if this is the case, a check engine light is illuminated and engine performance is not what it used to be due to the restriction.

I would not be surprised to see a restricted radiator with a 14 year old vehicle, and it is usually standard practice to replace the thermostat and radiator cap when replacing the radiator.

Blessings,

Austin Davis

I have a 1995 Dodge Caravan. I have recently rebuilt the transmission due to a leak and then burnt it out, put in a new radiator as it was leaking?, new hot water heater as the car was still over heating and new belts and distributor cap.

The fan wasn’t working so a new switch as it only worked with air conditioning which I never use. The car is still over heating. I keep putting water in the radiator and it is going somewhere.

The over flow level never moves, I had the engine pressure tested and it held I believe 13 lbs. There is on water in the oil. There is no moisture inside the car. The mechanics have mentioned a head gasket as the problem…Would this make sense? Is it okay to drive the car as long as I check the water in the radiator and it doesn’t over heat.

I appreciate any help,

Heather

Asheville, NC

Hello Heather,

If you are experiencing an overheating problem AND you are continually adding water to the radiator….you MUST have a coolant leak somewhere.

Sometimes the leaks don’t present themselves right off the bat during a pressure test…but from what you tell me, I would be highly suspect of a coolant leak somewhere.

I don’t think you have a costly head gasket leak from what you tell me, at least not yet anyway…if you over heat this little engine though you could very well damage the head gasket or the engine itself.

I think I would get a second opinion, and have another mechanic perform the pressure test. Tell them what the symptoms are, and what you have done up to this point, but don’t try to diagnose the problem for them.

Ask the new mechanic, why is the engine overheating and why do I continually have to add water to the radiator….and let them do their job. Also go to a real mechanic, not a tire or oil change place for this kind of diagnosis.

Blessings,

Austin Davis

I am contacting you regarding my 2002 GMC ENVOY. I tootk it to a shop here in Atlanta for overheating problems where my car was overheating a cutting off last a week ago Saturday. The owner happened to be there and told me she would look at it over the weekend and call me Monday to give me a diagnostic and a quote. I agreed.

Monday she told me that the car needed a coolant flush, thermostat, micro-v belt and water pump, and that this would correct the problem. She quoted me $700 to complete these repairs.

I picked up my car on Friday and the mechanics said everything was great and the car was running fine. I was followed home in my vehicle by one of the mechanics there, and drove him back to the shop nearly 10-15 minutes from my home.

About an hour oor two later I left my house to pick up my son from school. I got about 2 miles down the road before my car began overheating again. I was able to get it back to the shop when they told me that due to a water test (which they showed me the blue and green sample) I had a blown head gasket and needed to take my car to a dealership.

I want to know how I should proceed? I read your advice to another customer about cheaper options fo dealing with engine overheating problems — what should I do? I had my car towed back to my home until I could talk to some people especially after just outing $700 and getting nothing for it.

I also wanted to ask what you know and what you thought of thermogasket? Will this work for my car possibly?

I have a paid off truck and really just need to get another year or so out of it?

Any advice?

Roxanne

Hi there Roxanne,

My first piece of advice is not to listen to these yahoo mechanics! You don’t have a head gasket problem until someone can PROVE it. These guys are guessing…just like they did with their first diagnosis.

The best advice I can give you without being there to look at this vehicle myself, is have it TOWED to the dealership for a proper diagnosis. Just tell the dealer your symptoms and what is happening as you drive, but I don’t think I would go into details about the work you just had done. They will be able to see the new parts themselves, but for now …..you don’t want them to think you suspect a costly head gasket repair.

They should perform a pressure test of the cooling system and go from there. I do have to say that if the engine overheating AND you continued to drive the vehicle until the engine shut off……..that is NOT good at all for the head gasket and the engine itself.

It just takes a few seconds of overheating to due severe damage to these engines. Don’t add anything to your coolant/radiator until you get a firm diagnosis of a head gasket problem.

Blessings,

Austin Davis

Hello again this is Donald and I was wondering if you could possibly help me out with this question I have a 1997 Monte Carlo with the 3100 V6 motor in it and I have been getting shit for gas milage lately and when the car starts in the morning it starts fine but when you warm it up and shut it off and leave it sit for about an hour and then go to start it again it wont start and stay running unless you push the accelorator to the floor to let the enging breathe.

I think it is getting to much gas and when it does start you can smell gas so today i took the vacum line off of the fuel pressure regulator and smelled it and it smells like gas and i dont think it is supposed to so i was wondering if maybe the fuel pressure regulotor was going bad in it what do you think and can you please tell me if it is hard to change.

Can anyone do it and if i need any special tools to go with it i have been getting about 22 mpg and should get like 29 hwy mpg right. Please email me back as soon as possible when you get this message.

Thanks Donald

Hey there Donald,

I think I would have your throttle body and idle speed control motor cleaned first and see what that does. If those items are dirty, they will cause rough idle, dying at idle, and slow/extended start complaints.

Also worn out spark plugs, spark plug wires, a weak fuel pump and a dirty fuel filter could also cause your complaint….but I don’t think you have a fuel pressure regulator problem from what you mentioned.

Blessings,

Austin Davis

When I picked up my car (1996 Chevy Lumina) from my mechanics shop, the VOLTS light came on immediately. The shop was closed and will not reopen until a week from Monday, and I desperately need my car and have little money.

The repair that was done: The EGR valve was cleaned out so the check engine light would go off. I was told the valve was packed (like cement). Is it possible the mechanic didn’t reconnect something that is now making the VOLTS light come on?

Are there easy things I can ask a mechanic to check so my car is driveable? My car book says not to drive the car with the VOLTS light on — right?

Thank you so much…I am quite upset.

CE

Hi CE,

I would first check all the fuses, and then I would check the battery cable connections and the alternator connections, then test the alternator.

That Volts light is ON because the computer is not seeing any electrical output from the alternator. You hopefully just have a bad fuse (there could be a fuse box under your hood as well as inside the vehicle) and not a bad alternator.

Blessings,

Austin Davis

Hello Sir ,

I own a 1997 Ford Mustang 3.8L with a Manual Transmission,

I am having 2 problems that I can’t seem to identify.

The first problem I’m having is that when I start to drive everything is fine the needle stays in the center of the oil pressure gauge,
but after about 15 mins of driving, when I prepare to come to a stop and down shift, the needle on the oil pressure gauge starts to fluctuate.
When I come to a complete stop the oil pressure gauge takes a nose dive to show no oil pressure at all. When I start to drive again the pressure
returns to normal and stays normal while up shifting the gears.

I’ve Recently had the oil changed, and have checked the oil level. I’ve replaced the the oil sensing unit. What could be the problem?

The Second issue that I am having is that the odometer has stopped, I had the clutched replaced and it was functioning perfectly prior to that.
I returned to the auto shop where they had done the work and questioned them about the issue, they checked it out and they stated that
all the cables were connected correctly. They did not go back into the transmission to recheck all of the cables. Could they have not reconnected the cable that controls the odometer?

Hi there,

I would have the mechanic check your oil pressure with a manual screw on hand held gauge at the engine. You could have a dash gauge problem or you could actually have an oil pump issue or restriction at the oil pump causing low oil pressure.

If the speedometer is working….the cables are hooked up properly, and the odometer issue is probably due to a dashboard “speedometer head” internal problem. You might want to call a few junk yards and buy a used instrument cluster to replace the speedometer head with a used one.

Blessings,

Austin Davis

The front wipers in my 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan have that GHOSTING problem were they work whenever they want when off. I replaced the multifunction switch (wiper/directionals), replaced the wiper motor and replaced both relays and still cannot get them to stop doing it.

Hi there,

I have seen this once before in our shop….but its been awhile. I think you have a bad BCM Body Control Module, which if I am not mistaken is located on the kick panel of the driver side on or near the fuse panel. it will have lots of wires and 2? large wire connectors attached to it.

If a new one is too expensive (since this is just my guess without testing) you might find a used one at a junk yard.

Blessings,

Austin Davis

I have a oily watery drip about the size of a 16 oz can lid.

My oil level is fine and my water level is lowering but not critical. 1994 Mazda Miata has not overheated and oil pressure is normal.

My question is should I try an additive first or go to the shop and have head gasket replaced (my guess) and all the other things you do while doing that.

Thank you,

Larry

Hey there Larry,

This is probably just a simple external oil leak somewhere. I would either get your mechanic to inspect the engine for leaks, or if you want to do it yourself, get a few cans of CRC Brakekleen at your local auto parts store and spray off any oily areas on the engine and find the leak yourself.

Its non flammable and drys instantly. You might have to clean the area that is oily then drive the car around the block to locate the source of the leak.

Blessings,
Austin Davis