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Messages - losmaster

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1
You may have a burnt fuse link....if it has a fuse link at the battery lug of the starter solenoid, check that first....sometimes they will burn the core and cause an open curcuit without much obvious damage to the insulation, so you might have to pull on it, see if it stretches. When you replace fuse link always make sure to use the original gage fuse wire, don't go larger or you could cause a fire.....go too small and it will burn quickly.

2
Auto Repair Car Questions / Re: Torque/Turn Charts???
« on: September 29, 2012, 10:18:22 PM »
Thats torque/angle....I know GM started using this in the 90's when I worked at a Chevy dealer....they sent us a torque/angle meter in a special tools delivery and I used it a ton(mostly for engine work)....if the manufacturer specifies torque plus angle you really need a torque/angle meter otherwise you're just guessing.

3
Auto Repair Car Questions / Re: CR-V Battery Keeps Failing
« on: September 14, 2012, 07:51:05 PM »
Sounds like the battery is marginal or its got a heck of a parasitic drain....let a couple different places "load test" the battery first, then we'll tackle the parasitic drain test.

4
Auto Repair Car Questions / Re: Weird Sound With Car
« on: September 14, 2012, 07:46:40 PM »
Is it coming from the dash or under the hood?

5
Auto Repair Car Questions / Re: 2000 gmc sierra quit
« on: September 14, 2012, 07:44:47 PM »
Draw about a pint or so of gas into a clear container and make sure there's no water or gunk in it.

6
Auto Repair Car Questions / Re: 2000 gmc sierra quit
« on: September 13, 2012, 10:04:57 PM »
Any codes stored? Was the CEL on before it cut off? Did you check the fuel pressure with a gage?

7
Auto Repair Car Questions / Re: 2000 Ford Taurus hard to start when warm.
« on: September 13, 2012, 10:01:27 PM »
Ahhh, OK....so its a "slow crank" when its hot.....If the battery cables and cable ends look good and are clean and corrosion free, and the battery load tests out ok and its charging between about 13.6 - 14,5 volts, there's a good chance the starter may be on its way out....just for future reference, most mechanics call "hard to crank" = starter won't spin the engine over properly....."hard to start" = it spins over fast but won't start....I'm guessing this terminolgy started back when you actually did have to crank the engine over by hand, with a crank handle, lol!

8
Auto Repair Car Questions / Re: 1998 Grand Prix -- door part; needed?
« on: September 11, 2012, 09:22:22 PM »
Stuff like that is mostly ornamental, as long as there's no holes into the door itself, you don't need it....and really, the door itself should have weep holes to get rid of any water entering the door.

9
Auto Repair Car Questions / Re: 2002 jeep wrangler HELP PLEASE
« on: September 11, 2012, 09:19:07 PM »
Really need a fuel pressure gage to check it accurately.

10
Auto Repair Car Questions / Re: 2000 Ford Taurus hard to start when warm.
« on: September 11, 2012, 09:16:49 PM »
You say there's no check engine light on and no stored codes? If it was me, I'd check the fuel pressure and try to get a spark tester on it, when it won't start......Does it crank ok....I mean like does it turn over fast but won't start at times when hot?

11
Auto Repair Car Questions / Re: 1998 Grand Prix -- door part; needed?
« on: September 11, 2012, 09:11:31 PM »
I'd call that a left front door lower molding.

12
Auto Repair Car Questions / Re: Brake Inspection Gone Wrong?
« on: September 11, 2012, 09:07:21 PM »
Thats probably a brake pad shim, some brake pads have a "stick on" shim that goes on the backside of the brake pad, for noise/squeal reduction....as they get older, the sticky stuff dries up and the shim can slip....normally, on a brake inspection, you'd just do a visual inspection of the pads or shoes(noting the amount of wear) and measure the rotor thickness(noting any unusual conditions)....maybe check the brake fluid level and condition of the fluid.....and note any brake,trac, or abs warning lights on....you really don't take anything apart, unless you're going to do a really thorough job and check the e-brake shoe, inside the rear rotor, as this would be something you can't see normally with the wheel and tire removed....if the techs doing the inspection noticed the slipped shim, thats something you'd normally notate on the RO....otherwise, it may have slipped on the return trip to your house?

13
If it wasn't backfiring before the tune-up, something must be wrong with the firing order, the dist. caps misaligned, incorrect plugs or gap, something had to change right?  I think #1 on that one is on the left front of the cap(from the drivers seat) then the rotation is CW - 18436572.....rt bank 2468, left bank 1357....The other problem of cutting off at low rpm's could be many things(like Discrete said) but a fairly common and often overlooked item is the pick-up coil in the dist. When they get old and corroded they will often have a weak signal at low rpm's, but since its so close physically to the ig mod where the signal is going, it'll hang in there showing only intermittent problems, longer than it should, lol! Stalling at low rpm's is one symptom, erratic spark, weak spark, my truck(93 chevy tbi) would actually start up and run by shooting a little starting fluid in the snorkle, when it wouldn't start normally...once I got it started, it was OK, till I let the rpm's drop, then it would cut off again = more starting fluid.....almost acted like a fuel problem, but I'd take the top off the air cleaner and watch the injectors spraying a good cone of fuel, and had a spark, it was just orange looking, rather than a bluish spark....the pick-up coil fixed mine.

14
Have you already replaced the cable and having trouble connecting it, or do you wanna know how to replace the cable? Some of those are a real pain, even with the vehicle up on a lift...... I had to let one of the small wiry guys replace one for me this year, as I couldn't get my big paws and  short arms anywhere close to actually touching it, without disassembling half the underside of the car, lol!

15
Auto Repair Car Questions / Re: A mechanical opinion.
« on: August 14, 2012, 06:02:00 PM »
What was the original code number by the way Jennie.....you said in the other post it was a #4 injector problem but what were the code numbers....and what's showing up now?

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