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1999 Ford Ranger.

My clutch would go soft every now and then. Then it became more frequent until eventually it quit working altogether and I have no resistance on the pedal at all iy goes right to the floor. I thought it could be a hydraulic problem since the clutch never slipped on me. I changed the master cylander and when that did not fix it I took out the tranny and changed th slave cylander put everything back, bled the system and the problem is still there. What should I check next.

I would try and Bleed the System again .Any air is the system will give you a soft pedal.

I have bled the system the way the repair manual I bought said to. Maybe it is wrong. Could someone explain the proper way to bleed the clutch.

It is the same procedure as bleeding a brake system.What I do is: I have 2 people usually.Make sure the master cylinder does not run out of brake fluid,then have the second person work the clutch pedal,open the bleeder,then have them depress the clutch pedal.then close the bleeder screw,then have them release the pedal.make sure when the bleeder is open you do not suck in any air.while the bleeder is open,make sure the pedal is not released.only on the down movement of the cluth pedal do you want the bleeder open. I use Vacuun hose and attach it to the bleeder so you can catch most of the fluid.Also if you only have one person doing the bleeding immerse the hose in a jar filled halfway or so with brake fluid,and make sure the hose is in the fluid,open the bleeder and you can see the air bubbles as you depress the pedal,when you see no air bubbles, close the bleeder.

You could bleed it that way all day long and not get the air out of the system. The problem is that the air is trapped in the master cylinder and you'll never get it out unless you remove the master and bench bleed it first with the line connected. If you bleed the system by getting the master below the slave, that will purge all the air out also.

My Ranger was funny about bleeding the clutch hydraulics also. I had the thing for years and put 2 master cylinders and 1 slave cylinder in it over my ownership. Not to mention other Rangers. I would bench bleed the master cylinder, then bleed it at the slave cylinder. It didn't matter if I had an assistant or used the jar of fluid/hose method. The dang peddle would stay soft. I assumed it still had air in it also.

How I remedied the situation was to start the truck in 1st gear and take off. The clutch pedal built it's pressure up and everything was fine after driving 100 ft.

Don't ask me to explain, all I know is it worked everytime. I think it has to do with the slave cylinder design and location of it's bleeder valve.

how do I bench bleed the master cylander

Ford bulletin #93-12-19

ISSUE:
A "soft" unresponsive clutch pedal may be felt or the driver may be unable to release the clutch. This is caused by air entrapped in the clutch hydraulic system.

ACTION:
Use the information in this TSB article in addition to the bleed procedure specified in the 1993 Service Manual. This article includes detail as well as extra service tips for easier hydraulic clutch bleeding.

The clutch hydraulic system for the 1993 model year is new and more difficult to bleed than the previous hydraulic system. Therefore, a different bleeding procedure is required for these vehicles.


RANGER, EXPLORER, AEROSTAR

The most difficult systems to bleed are on the Rangers, Explorers and Aerostars. Follow the bleed procedure as outlined in the 1993 Service Manual, This procedure with the addition of the bench bleed process is included in this TSB article.

NOTE: WHEN INSTALLING DRY CLUTCH CYLINDER OR TUBE SERVICE PARTS, DO THE BENCH BLEED PROCEDURE FIRST.




BENCH BLEED

The compact vehicles are more difficult to bleed because the downward angle of the master cylinder makes it difficult for air to escape up into the reservoir. Therefore, if the master cylinder is removed from the vehicle and bled while held in a vertical orientation (a bench bleed) air can escape much more efficiently.

BENCH BLEEDING PROCEDURE (CONCENTRIC SLAVE CYLINDER)


1. Remove master cylinder, line and reservoir from vehicle and assemble with replacement parts required based on initial concern.
2. Hold the master cylinder vertically with the reservoir feed hose in the highest position on the body,
3. Fill the reservoir and extend above the master cylinder and assure the quick connect on the clutch line is below the master cylinder. (Lightly clamp reservoir in a vice).
4. Using a small screwdriver, depress the internal mechanism of the male quick connect coupling to open the valve,
5. Stroke and hold master cylinder pushrod.
6. Close quick connect valve.
7. Release master cylinder pushrod.
8. Fill reservoir.
Repeat Steps 4 through 8 four more times.
9. With the master cylinder still being held with the outlet tube and reservoir feed tube ends high, quick connect closed and the reservoir full, proceed as follows:
10. Push the pushrod into the body several times quickly to expel any remaining air.
If it is a remote reservoir, pinch the supply hose with your fingers two or three times to help move air into reservoir.
When the movement of the pushrod is .160" (4mm) or less when stroked in Step 10, reinstall the master cylinder into the vehicle and couple it to the slave cylinder.

ON VEHICLE BLEED PROCEDURE, CONCENTRIC SLAVE CYLINDER

Under normal conditions, disconnecting the clutch coupling will not introduce air into the system. However, if there appears to be air in the system (spongy pedal or insufficient bearing travel), the system must be bled. The following procedure is used with the hydraulic system installed on the vehicle.


1. Disconnect the coupling at the transmission with a coupling disconnect tool (T88T70522A) or equivalent by sliding the white plastic sleeve toward the slave cylinder while applying a slight tug on the clutch tube.
2. Clean dirt and grease from around the reservoir cap.
3. Remove cap and diaphragm and fill reservoir to the step with Heavy Duty Brake Fluid (C6AZ-19542-AA or BA) (ESA-M6C25-A) or equivalent.
CAUTION: BRAKE FLUID MUST BE CERTIFIED TO DOT 3 SPECIFICATION.



4. By hand, apply 10-15 lbs. to clutch pedal.
If pedal is hard (.25-.50 "movement), skip to Step 9.
If pedal is spongy, proceed to the next step.
5. Using a small screwdriver....
Depress the internal mechanism of the male coupling to open the valve.
6. While continuing to hold the valve open, slowly depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold.
7. Remove the screwdriver from the coupling, closing the valve.
8. Release the clutch pedal.
9. Refill the reservoir to level at step.
NOTE: THE RESERVOIR MUST BE KEPT FULL AT ALL TIMES TO ENSURE THAT THERE WILL BE NO ADDITIONAL INTRODUCTION OF AIR INTO THE SYSTEM.



Repeat Steps 4 through 7.
Install cap on reservoir.
Reconnect the coupling to the slave cylinder.
Check that the connection is secure by applying a slight tug to the clutch tube.
Stroke the clutch pedal as rapidly as possible for five to ten strokes.
Wait one to three minutes.
Repeat Steps 10 and 11 three more times.
Loosen the bleed screw which is located in the slave cylinder body next to the inlet connection.
Depress and hold the clutch pedal while tightening the bleed screw 3-5 N-m (2.2-3.7 lb-ft).
Refill the reservoir to level at step.
The hydraulic system should now be fully bled and should release the clutch. Check the clutch reserve per the instruction in the 1993 Service Manual, Section 08-00.

F-SERIES, BRONCO

Since full size vehicles have master cylinders which are mounted in a level attitude, they bleed more efficiently than do compact vehicles. However, some difficulties may still be encountered if the new procedure is not used.


VEHICLES WITH CONCENTRIC SLAVE CYLINDERS

The procedure given in the Service Manual on page 08-00-9 is incorrect. Use the same bleed procedure as specified for the compact vehicles which is included in this article. The optional bench bleed procedure may be used, but is probably not necessary.


VEHICLES WITH EXTERNAL SLAVE CYLINDERS

The procedure in the 1993 Service Manual should be modified as follows:

Do not use the Alternate Method.
After Step 7 and before Step 8, do the following...
Remove the slave cylinder from the transmission.
Holding the cylinder so that the port for the tube is at the highest point, slowly push the pushrod into the cylinder and slowly let it return. Be sure the reservoir is full of fluid beforehand. Repeat this step two more times.
Reattach the slave cylinder to the transmission.
Rapidly depress the clutch pedal 10 times through a travel of about 1" (25.4mm).
If the pedal is not hard within .25" (6.35mm) to .5" (12.7mm) of travel, repeat Step d.

thank you so much to all that responded. I bled the system properly and the problem is fixed. It ticks me off that you spend so much money with ford or any other manufacturer and when you call there service dept. they are reluctant to give you any info. I asked the service dept at my local ford dealer if they had any procedures on clutch bleeding they could give me and he said I would have to bring it in because they did not have any written procedure they coul give me. Why couldn't he have just given me the technical bulliten that discretesignals sent me. They love to take your money but they can't give you any free help.