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Automotive Maintenance Schedule Recommendations
70,000 - 120,000 Miles
Use the following matrix to plan regular automotive maintenance of your car.
This schedule is an excellent source of information for:
- Performing maintenance items yourself where possible and
suitable
- Verifying that your auto mechanic's recommendations are appropriate
- Planning your budget to accommodate necessary future repairs
- Understand what repairs are being recommended and why
- Provide an easy to read and understand guide for the lay
person
- Establish a work history log for your vehicle
This schedule is appropriate for most American, European and Japanese
automobiles. As always, consult your owner's manual for specific
items related to your make and model. Information and instructions
in your owner's manual supercede this schedule, which means that
if your manual recommends replacing the timing belt at 50,000 miles,
do not wait until the 60,000 mark as shown in this matrix.
This guide is meant to supplement the manufacturer
recommendations for your specific vehicle, and should not replace
such recommendations.
Wherever possible we have given recommendations of aftermarket products
that we have found to be reliable and in our opinion, of good quality.
These recommendations were added to inform the vehicle operator
of products that may or may not be suitable for their specific vehicle.
We recommend these products as helpful insight and from personal
experiences.
This guide may be reprinted in its entirety with all resources and
links in place.
Brought to you by www.TrustMyMechanic.com
the honest mechanic working for YOU!
The following matrix covers maintenance items from 70,000
to 120,000 miles. Click on the mileage interval for your vehicle
to go to a checklist for that specific schedule. 15 (15,000) 20
(20,000) etc.
Maintenance Interval (in
thousands of miles)
R=Replace I=Inspect
CLICK ON NUMBERS
FOR EXPLANATIONS
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70
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75
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80
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85
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95
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100
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105
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110
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120
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| 1.
Air Filter |
R
|
I
|
I
|
R
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I
|
I
|
R
|
I
|
R
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| 2.
Anti-freeze/Coolant |
|
I
|
|
I
|
|
|
R
|
|
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| 3.
Battery |
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
R
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
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| 4.
Belts |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
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| 5.
Brakes-Pads/Fluid |
|
|
|
I
|
|
|
|
|
R
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| 6.
Differential |
|
I
|
I
|
R
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
R
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| 7.
Fuel Filter |
|
|
R
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|
|
|
|
R
|
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| 8.
Radiator Hoses |
|
|
|
I
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|
|
|
|
R
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| 9.
Engine Oil |
I/R
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I/R
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I/R
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I/R
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I/R
|
I/R
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I/R
|
I/R
|
I/R
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| 10.
Power Steering Fluid |
I
|
I
|
I
|
R
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
R
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| 11.
Shocks / Struts |
|
|
|
I
|
|
|
|
|
I
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| 12.
Spark Plugs |
|
|
|
|
|
R
|
|
|
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| 13.
Spark Plug Wires |
|
|
|
|
|
R
|
|
|
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| 14.
Tires |
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
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| 15.
Transmission Fluid |
I
|
I
|
R
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
R
|
I
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| 16.
Wiper Blades |
I/R
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I/R
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I/R
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I/R
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I/R
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I/R
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I/R
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I/R
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I/R
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| 17.
Washer Fluid |
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
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| 18.
Exterior Care |
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
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| 19.
Timing Belt |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
R
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| 20.
Dist Cap / Ignition Rotor |
|
|
I
|
|
|
R
|
|
|
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| 21.
Lights & Bulbs |
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
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| 22.
A/C System |
|
|
|
I
|
|
I
|
|
I
|
I
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23.
CV Boots/Joints or
Drive Shaft/U-Joints |
|
|
|
I
|
|
|
|
I
|
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| 24.
Front Suspension |
|
I
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|
I
|
|
I
|
|
I
|
I
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For 15,000-60,000 schedule Click
here
Explanations of Recommendations
1.
Air filter - Replace the air filter
about every 15,000 miles for normal driving conditions. A dirty
air filter will not cause the engine to run bad, stall, or misfire.
A dirty filter can cause reduced fuel economy and higher
exhaust emission gases. Fram filters offers air, fuel, oil, pcv
and interior cabin filters for most cars and trucks. We have been
using Fram filters in my shop for years and they are probably one
of the most recognizable aftermarket filter brands on the market.
2.
Antifreeze/Coolant -
Inspect: Check the fluid level
in the plastic "overflow reservoir" and the actual level of coolant
inside the radiator. You should be able to visually see the coolant
level inside the radiator when the engine is cold. Caution: remove
the radiator cap only after engine has cooled, and it is
safe to do so. If the antifreeze is dirty or rusty colored, or
has lost its over heating/anti-freezing capability it should be
flushed and replaced. Regular life antifreeze is bright green in
color, and the newer "extended" longer life antifreeze is red in
color. Either type can be used but should not be mixed together.
Replace:
Drain and flush old coolant from the radiator and reservoir bottle,
inspect the heater and radiator hoses and clamps for replacement,
and install a new radiator cap. A vented replacement radiator cap
safely removes hot steam from the radiator and makes emergency road
side coolant inspections easier and safer. Prestone antifreeze
is what we use at my and is probably one of the most trusted brands
on the market. Prestone also offers a variety of radiator flush
equipment and additives.
3.
Battery - Check terminals and cables--loose
or dirty battery cables are a common "no start" condition. Cable
ends and battery terminals should be cleaned with a wire brush and
light sand paper periodically to remove any corrosion build up.
Battery terminal protecting spray coatings can also be helpful
in reducing the formation of corrosion. I have used A/C Delco batteries
for many years and find them to be very dependable and 100% maintenance
free.
Caution: remove all metal objects like
wrist watches and rings before working around a battery-a spark
or fire can occur (I have the scars to prove it).
Battery
Load
- Battery "load" is how much load or drain can be placed on the
electrical system before the battery begins to discharge itself.
Think of it as how much electricity the battery can store before
having to be recharged. It is not uncommon for batteries to go completely
"flat" or discharged without ever giving a warning signal to the
operator. Have the mechanic check the battery condition and load
levels at every oil change interval if the battery is over 2 years
old to ensure the battery will not leave you unexpectedly stranded.
A weak battery that is not storing enough power will cause the alternator
to work harder and possibly cause premature alternator failure.
Dirty or corroded battery terminals can severely reduce the lifespan
of the battery and alternator.
A quick and inexpensive battery check
and cable inspection can be done at each oil change. The replacement
battery should be the same size, have the same battery cable connections,
and should be the same electrical capacity as the original battery
4.
Belts - Check for worn or loose belts.
Belts should be replaced if they are worn on the edges, frayed,
or cracked. Do not spray silicone or WD40-type chemicals on a noisy
belt-it will usually just make the noise worse. Check the tension
on each belt, and see if anything is rubbing or coming in contact
with it. I have been using Gates belts, radiator and heater hoses
and timing belts for years and highly recommend them for aftermarket
replacement rubber components.
5.
Brakes-
Inspect: Check the brake
fluid level. The fluid level should only need to be slightly topped
off occasionally. If more than 2 oz. of fluid is needed, the brake
system should be inspected for leaks and component wear. Add only
the recommended type of brake fluid as listed in the owner's manual.
Do not add any other fluid to the brake fluid reservoir, and keep
all foreign objects like fingers out of the fluid. The fluid in
the reservoir should be clear in appearance and free of dirt and
debris.
Replace:
Brake fluid retains moisture and should be flushed and re-bled (remove
the air from the system) to keep brakes working effectively.
Check brake
pad and shoe wear. Don't wait until you hear grinding
noises to have the brakes inspected. Have brakes checked periodically
for wear. Some warning signs of brake problems are: noises when
brakes are applied, the steering wheel shakes when brakes are applied,
needing to add more than 2 oz of brake fluid to the brake fluid
reservoir, a soft or squishy brake pedal, or the brake pedal goes
to the floor slowly while brakes are applied.
6.
Differential Fluid - (A rear
differential is only found on rear wheel drive cars and trucks.)
Inspect: The rear differential
(commonly referred to as the rear end) fluid or grease should be
checked during each routine oil change and topped off as needed
with the fluid prescribed in the owner's manual.
Replace:
Drain and flush the rear end fluid periodically to remove any metal
filings that have normally accumulated in the differential housing.
Replace the differential cover gasket and add any recommended supplemental
additive prescribed in the owner's manual. I have been using Wynn's
differential fluid additives for years and strongly believe in their
line of fluid additives.
7. Fuel
Filter - Fuel filters become clogged with dirt and debris
during normal operation and should be replaced to increase performance,
extend fuel pump life, and aid in fuel economy.
8.
Radiator and Heater Hoses -
Inspect: To check for leaks
or bulges with the engine cold, squeeze the radiator hoses with
one hand at all points along the hose. If soft spots, bulges, or
a "cracking feeling" is identified, replace ALL water hoses at the
same time.
Replace:
Replace all water hoses including heater, bypass, and radiator hoses
at the same time. The coolant and radiator cap should also be replaced
at this time. Visit the Gates Rubber Company online part catalog
for more information on their great line of rubber products www.Gates.com
9.
Engine Oil -
Inspect: Check oil level when
engine is cold and with vehicle on level ground.
Replace:
Change oil and filter. Check all fluids, tires and air pressure,
air filter, belts and hoses and spare tire condition when changing
the engine oil. This is also a great time to clean the corrosion
from the battery cables. Check owners manual for specific oil recommendation.
Want to learn more about motor oils? Exposing the Myth of the 3,000 Mile Oil
Change
10. Power
Steering Fluid -
Inspect:
Check level. Power steering fluid can either be pink or clear in
color, usually only a very small amount is needed to top off fluid
level. If more than 2 oz. is needed, have the system checked for
leaks or wear.
Replace:
Power steering fluid just like any other fluid becomes dirty and
contaminated and should be replaced with clean fluid periodically.
Dirty power steering fluid can cause the power steering pump or
the power steering gear assemblies to fail and can cause premature
wear to occur.
11.
Shock Absorbers and Struts -
Inspect: Check for fluid leaks
around the shock. Some shocks are filled with oil and a visible
fluid leak can be detected. Excessive bumpy ride, leaning, or swaying
in one direction more than normal on brake application or around
turns can also indicate worn or damaged shocks. I have been using
Monroe gas filled shocks and struts for many years with great success.
Replace:
Replace all four shocks/struts at the same time to get maximum benefit
and drivability. In some cases a wheel alignment should be performed
after new struts are installed.
12. Spark
Plugs - Worn or faulty spark plugs can cause misfire, poor
fuel mileage, loss of power, and slow or extended starting time.
Spark plug wires should be replaced when replacing spark plugs.
Autolite spark plugs offer spark plugs for just about anything with
an engine. Tough, dependable and affordable, Autolite spark plugs
have been in my parts house for as long as I can remember.
13. Spark
Plug Wires - Spark plug wires should be replaced when replacing
spark plugs to get maximum performance and life expectancy of spark
plugs. Consider using Autolite plugs and wires during your next
vehicle tune up.
14.
Tires --
Inspect: Check pressure and tread wear.
Check air pressure cold unless otherwise described in the owner's
manual. Inspect tires for uneven tread wear, punctures, bulges,
or cuts in sidewall of the tire.
The
Tire Rack.com has brand name tires, custom wheels,
brake and suspension parts at the best prices we have seen. They
offer a great warranty and drop shipment capability to your local
repair shop is available. Don't know what size tire your car should
have? The
Tire Rack.com has a very powerful and helpful online
catalog to help you make the best replacement choice for tires and
custom wheels.
Rotate and balance: Routine
rotation and balancing can greatly extend the life of your tires.
Most front end "shake and shimmy" complaints can be attributed to
out of balance, or out of round tires. Ask your mechanic if he would
inspect the brakes for free when rotating and balance tires. Discount
Tires does not do alignment work, and we highly recommend checking
the alignment when replacing tires.
15. Transmission
Fluid -
Inspect: Usually the transmission
fluid level is checked with the engine hot and in park, and with
engine running. Check your owner's manual for proper fluid type
and proper fluid level inspection procedures. Automatic transmission
fluid is usually pink in color. Most standard "stick" shift transmissions
will have a drain plug to service the fluid. Some stick shift transmissions
use engine oil as a lubricant; consult your owner's manual when
servicing. It could also be a good idea to have the replacement
fluid type information available for the repair shop.
Replace: Consult vehicle owner
manual for proper fluid type and service interval. If applicable,
replace the internal automatic transmission filter or clean the
re-usable screen when changing the transmission fluid. A transmission
pan gasket will also be required during a filter change. Some newer
model vehicles require special additives check yoru owners manual.
16.
Windshield Wipers
--
Inspect: Check wiper blades
for wear and washer fluid level during a regular oil and filter
change. Don't make the mistake of never thinking about replacing
or inspecting the wiper blades until you really need them.
Replace: Some wiper blades are
different lengths for driver and passenger side. Measure old blades
before replacing with new ones. Some manufactures like Anco offer
different replacement wiper blade types (i.e. for snow and ice,
off road, and severe duty).
17. Windshield
Washer Fluid
- Check level. Anti-freezing and water repelling
additives can also be added to the washer fluid reservoir. Not only
will washer fluid aid in removing dirt from the windshield, but
also it will act as a lubricant to prolong the life of the wiper
blade. Adding rubbing alcohol to the washer fluid can be harmful
to the rubber on the wiper blades.
18.
ExteriorCare- Regular car washes can remove air
borne chemicals through "acid rain" that get deposited onto the
paint surface, and dull the layer of "clear coating" that is meant
to protect the paint and help promote shine and luster.
Car wash
soap should be used and not dish or household soaps, as their chemical
makeup can damage the clear coat. Semi-annual waxing of the exterior
paint surface will help to protect this important clear coat. A
new wax that seems to be taking the car detail market by storm is
www.5-StarShine.com
The only paint protectant with a 5 year guarantee. Just spray your
car with water and the dirt washes off. 5 Star is the slipperiest
substance on Earth! On sale now.
19. Timing
Belt - Replace as scheduled if applicable for your vehicle.
Timing belts are commonly used on Japanese cars. The timing belt
is a rubber belt that drives the engine's internal components. The
timing belt is not easily visible and should be replaced at the
indicated mileage and time not on visual wear like a normal
drive belt. If the timing belt breaks, the engine stops and costly
internal engine damage can occur. The water pump on some vehicles
is driven by the timing belt, and should be replaced when replacing
the timing belt. Consult owner's manual or ask the repair shop if
this is the case on your car.
20.
Distributor Cap/Ignition Rotor - These items should be
inspected/replaced when replacing spark plugs and spark plug wires,
or when a "major tune-up" is called for. The distributor cap is
where the other end of the spark plug wires connect to, and the
ignition rotor in underneath the distributor cap. Some newer model
vehicles do not have a distributor at all. These cars are designed
with Distributorless Ignition Systems (D.I.S.), and therefore do
not have these parts.
21.
Lights and Bulbs
- Save yourself the hassle of failing
a vehicle inspection or being pulled over by the police for a tail
or brake light bulb out. Have all lights checked when performing
a regular engine oil change.
22.
A/C Refrigerant Level and Pressures - Air
conditioning refrigerant commonly known as "Freon" should be checked
for proper pressures and level of refrigerant oil periodically.
Low Freon and refrigerant oil levels can cause premature wear on
air compressors, and decrease overall performance of the a/c system.
Although the a/c system is a sealed unit, it is not uncommon to
have to add small amounts of refrigerant (Freon) periodically due
to small leaks and seepage. Freon is a gas that is under high pressure
and should only be serviced by a trained professional.
23.
CV Boots and CV Joints
- Used mostly on front
wheel drive cars, Constant Velocity (CV) joints are shafts that
connect the transmission to the wheels with knuckle joints on either
end of the shaft. The shafts provide the power to turn the wheels
by linking the transmission to the wheel. There are two shafts and
four joints on most front wheel drive cars. CV boots are made of
pliable rubber to cover the CV joint. Torn CV boots allow grease
meant to lubricate the joint to escape, and allows dirt and debris
to enter inside the joint. A worn CV joint usually produces a clicking
noise from the wheel area on hard turns.
Drive
Shaft and U-Joints
- Rear wheel drive cars and trucks have
drive shafts in place of CV joints that are found on front wheel
drive cars. The drive shaft links the transmission to the rear differential
to provide power to turn the wheels. Most drive shafts have two
or three U-joints connecting the shaft to the transmission and rear
differential. The shaft and joints should be checked for wear during
regular engine oil changes. Some U-joints can and should be greased
during the "grease job" portion of the oil change.
24.
Front End Alignment
- The front end components of a vehicle
can be out of alignment, but not give any indication or warning
signs. Shimmying and shakes in the front end are usually not caused
by the car being "out of alignment," but by out of balance or lack
of rotation with the tires. The vehicle pulling to one side, or
unusual tire wear are the two most common "out of alignment" warning
signs. Check the alignment and all wearable parts in the front end
periodically. Always have the front end aligned when replacing tires.
A front end alignment is commonly referred to as a "four wheel alignment"
these days. Some adjustments to the rear alignment are available
on most newer model vehicles, thus the term four wheel alignment.
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