Brake Master Cylinder
Troubleshooting
Reader Question:
My mechanic said that my master cylinder needs to be replaced soon. How
can he tell? I brought my car in for other repairs, and I don't know if
he is just trying to sell an add-on job.
Dear concerned car owner,
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So you are starting to feel uneasy about
your mechanic's recommendation? How do you know if he is doing his job
correctly and looking after your best interests and your safety? When a
brake master cylinder begins to go bad or fails, you will notice a soft
or squishy feeling when you press down on the brake pedal. When constant
pressure is maintained on the brake pedal (like when you keep your foot
on it at a stop light), the brake pedal will begin to sink to the floor
as the brake fluid leaks internally in the master cylinder. This is
called "extended travel" when the brake pedal goes farther
down than normal or than it was intended to. When this occurs you will
have to "pump" the brake pedal to regain normal pressure and
to keep the car from moving forward because the brakes are slowly
releasing. The red brake
warning dash light should come on to indicate low brake fluid, or
excessive movement "travel" in the brake pedal.
You will not normally see the
brake fluid leaking out externally of the brake master cylinder or from
the wheel areas when this pedal softness occurs, so fluid level alone
isn't an indication of a good or bad brake master cylinder. The fluid
will usually not be low or in need of topping off…remember the leak is
internal and the brake fluid is leaking past internal O-rings, so an
obvious external sign that the master cylinder is "bad" is
usually not existent.
Ok, that is great Austin, but that is not
happening in my case. What else could have tipped off this mechanic to a
possible faulty brake master cylinder? An external brake fluid leak
could be possible, and would be visible to the mechanic as he was
performing his usual under hood inspection. The master cylinder usually
has a plastic reservoir that holds the brake fluid, Click
for example, and this reservoir is mounted to the metal part of the
master cylinder by rubber grommets. The grommets allow for some movement
caused by brake pedal and fluid pressures. These grommets can leak
fluid, and a visible brake fluid leak can be seen with the naked eye
(brake fluid is a clear liquid).
The metal brake lines that are attached
to the master cylinder can leak fluid at the threaded connections, Click
for example. Brake fluid can also leak from the back of the master
cylinder due to these internal O-rings we talked about earlier. When
this happens, the fluid will drip down the power brake booster (the
booster is what the master cylinder is bolted to), Click
for example. Brake fluid will dissolve paint rather quickly, so this
kind of leak will usually leave a tell-tale sign of blistering, bubbled
paint under the brake master cylinder.
So if you experience any of the symptoms
explained above, give your mechanic a "brake." He was doing
his job thoroughly and was trying to help. In any case, check the brake
fluid level first and determine if fluid is needed. Check the cap and
make sure it is fitted snuggly on the cylinder and is not leaking or
showing any obvious signs of past leakage. Visually inspect the cylinder
externally for fluid leaks, and wipe any accumulated dirt and debris
from the area and the cylinder for ease of future inspections. The
cylinder should only need a very small amount of brake fluid as part of
regular maintenance, so if more than an ounce or two is needed to top
off the reservoir, you should have your brake system inspected by your
mechanic. Do not put off any needed repairs to your braking system.
I have put together some easy-to-follow
maintenance schedules with more recommendations and explanations that
are free to view and print out from our website. Maintenance Schedules.
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Sincerely,
Austin C Davis
The Honest Mechanic
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